Rami Game

  1. Rummy Game
  2. Rami Game Developer

You can enjoy your 13 card game online from our Indian rami game. Indian Rummy is famous for 13 card game that based on matching cards of the same rank or sequence and same suit. With it being a game of skill, it doesn’t fall under gambling and there is no element of ‘luck’ involved. Playing online rummy game for real cash is 100% legal in India. Exclusive Offers And Rewards The 13 card game is not only fun and packed with challenge, it also offers special deals, offers and rewards for registered players. Rummy is a group of matching-card games notable for similar gameplay based on matching cards of the same rank or sequence and same suit. The basic goal in any form of rummy is to build melds which consist of sets, three or four of a kind of the same rank; or runs, three or more cards in sequence, of the same suit. Presskit was only possible thanks to these fine folks! Presskit was created in just over a week by Rami Ismail of Dutch independent game studio Vlambeer.Rami does the business & development at Vlambeer and found himself looking for an efficient solution to press kits. Presskit was the result, but it wouldn't have been if it weren't for the following fine folks.

(Redirected from Rami (Card game))
Rummy
OriginUnited States
Age rangeAll
Cards(52) Varies on game type
DeckFrench
PlayClockwise
Playing time15 min.
Random chanceMedium
Related games
Conquian, mahjong, desmoche, marriage

Rummy is a group of matching-card games notable for similar gameplay based on matching cards of the same rank or sequence and same suit. The basic goal in any form of rummy is to build melds which consist of sets, three or four of a kind of the same rank; or runs, three or more cards in sequence, of the same suit. If a player discards a card, making a run in the discard pile, it may not be taken up without taking all cards below the top one. The Mexican game of Conquian is considered by games scholar David Parlett to be ancestral to all rummy games, which itself is derived from a Chinese game called Khanhoo.[1] The rummy principle of drawing and discarding with a view to melding appears in Chinese card games at least in the early 19th century, and perhaps as early as the 18th century.[2]

Rummy games are popular in India. It is likely that Indian rummy is an extension of gin rummy and 500 rum, which originated from the United States.

General features of rummy-style games[edit]

Deal[edit]

Depending on the variation, each player receives a certain number of cards from either a standard deck of 52 cards, more than one deck or a special deck of cards used for specific games. The un-dealt cards are placed in a face down stack in the middle, which is known as the stock. In most variations, a single card is turned face up next to the stock where players discard or shed cards, and this is known as the discard pile. In 10 Cards Rummy, which is often played with two, three or four players, each player gets ten cards. In rummy games with five players, each player is given six cards. In 500 Rummy, each player is given seven cards. In Indian Rummy, 13 cards are dealt to each player.

Rami

Melds[edit]

A meld can either be a set (also known as a book) or a run. A set consists of at least three cards of the same rank, for example 444 or KKKK. A run consists of at least three consecutive cards of the same suit JQK or 4567. Very few variations allow runs that have mixed suits. In a few variations of rummy, other patterns may be allowed. In some variations the melds (sets and runs) must be 3 or 4 cards, while other variations allow larger melds through the use of longer runs, for example: 8910JQ or, if multiple decks or wild cards are used, 55555 or QQJkrQ. Wild cards (such as a joker) may be used to represent any card in a meld. The number of wild cards in a meld may be restricted.

Gameplay[edit]

Depending on the variation of the game, players take turns adding and shedding cards from their hands. There are numerous and quite different ways of doing this though it usually involves picking a card from the stock and discarding a card to the discard pile. In some variations melds are revealed to all players by placing them face up on the table, in other variations each player keeps their hand hidden until the show. Some variations permit picking up the entire discard pile. A few variations permit stealing cards from their opponents melds.

Show[edit]

In most variations a player must put all of their cards into at least two melds (though they may be allowed to shed one card to the discard pile before showing). Once the player has melded all their cards they reveal their entire hand and the player submits their hand to validation. All other players reveal their melds and deadweight. The action of submitting the cards is called Showing.

Scoring[edit]

After a successful show, the winner or all players score their hand. In most variations numbered cards have certain assigned points and the royal cards (J-Q-K) have assigned points and the A often has a different point value. Scoring often involves each player adding up points in their melded cards (sets and runs) and deducting points from cards that have not been melded. The winner may also receive a bonus for winning. Some special or difficult melds may also give extra points to a hand. A player may have a negative score if their unmelded cards total more than their melded ones. Usually play continues until one player passes a threshold, for example 1,000 points.

Basic rummy[edit]

There are many variations of the card game. Basic rummy is also called sai rummy. Another type is called Sanka rummy. The version of rummy prevalent in India is called Indian rummy. They all share a common set of features found in the basic game. A standard deck of 52 cards is used. The cards rank from 2 (low) to A (high). Rummy can be played to a certain score, or to a fixed number of deals. All rummy games are about card-melding, i.e., forming valid combinations of sequences and/or sets. Players pick and discard a card on their turns to achieve the goal. The one who successfully melds his/her cards before all others, is the winner in that game of rummy.[3]

Shuffle and deal[edit]

Each player draws a card. The player with the lowest card deals first. The deal then proceeds clockwise. The player on the dealer's right cuts (this is optional).

The number of cards dealt depends on the number of players. If there are two players, each player gets ten cards. In three or four player games, seven cards are dealt to each player. Five or six players may also play, in which case each player receives six cards.

Number of playersNumber of cards dealt
2 players10 cards
3 or 4 players7 cards
5 or 6 players6 or 7 cards

Starting with the player to the dealer's left, cards are dealt clockwise, face down, one at a time. The dealer then puts the rest of the deck, face down, between the players. This forms the stock pile. A single card is then drawn and placed face up next to the stack. This is called the discard pile.

Playing[edit]

Play begins with the player on the dealer's left and proceeds clockwise. On their turn, each player draws the top card from the stock or the discard pile. The player may then meld or lay off, which are both optional, before discarding a single card to the top of the discard pile to end their turn.

Melding[edit]

If a player has three cards of the same suit in a sequence (called a sequence or a run), they may meld by laying these cards, face up, in front of them. If they have at least three cards of the same value, they may meld a group (also called a set or a book). Aces can be played as high or low or both, for example QKA, A23 and KA2 are legal. Melding is optional. A player may choose, for reasons of strategy, not to meld on a particular turn. The most important reason is to be able to declare 'Rummy' later in the game. If a run lies in the discard pile, such as 2-3-4, you cannot call rummy without taking all cards below the top card of said run.

Laying off[edit]

A player may also choose to 'lay off' some cards on an existing meld. This means that if a player can add to a sequence or a group that is in front of them or any of the other players, they may do so. Another variation is that they cannot 'lay off' unless they have already played a set of 3 or a run. For example: if another player had a sequence consisting of A23 in front of them, the player would be able to add the 4, or 45, and so on, thereby continuing the sequence. Some variations allow players to play the K and wrap around.

Discarding[edit]

Finally, after any melds or lay offs, the player must discard a single card to the discard pile, face up. If the player drew from the discard pile instead of the stock on this turn, they may not replace the same card on top of the discard pile but must discard a different card.

Exhausting the stock[edit]

If, while playing, the stock runs out, the next player may choose to draw from the discard pile or to turn the discard pile over to form a new stock. The discard pile is not shuffled in the process. After forming the new stock, the top card is drawn to form the new discard pile, just like after the deal. The player can call rummy if a point is discarded into the discard pile. They cannot however call rummy if the card becomes a point while in the discard pile.

Going out[edit]

When a player has gotten rid of all of their cards, they win the hand. There are two variations. Either the player must discard the last remaining card in their hand on the last turn, or they need not. Playing with this rule makes ending a hand slightly more difficult.

For example, if a player has only 78 left in their hand, and they draw 9 (forming a sequence), then whether they win the hand or not depends on if they are playing the discard rule variation. If they are playing this variation, they can not win the hand at this point, because they have to finish the turn by discarding one of the three cards in their hand, causing them to no longer have a sequence. However, if the player is allowed to lay off this sequence without a final discard, then the game ends when the player lays down the sequence. And a player can lay down cards afterwards. A player may win if rummy is discarded as the last card. You may also pick up from the discard pile and discard only if it is with a different card. The player that goes out first gets an extra 10 points.

Declaring rummy[edit]

If a player is able to meld all of their cards at once, they may say 'Rummy' on their turn and go out. To declare rummy, a player must not have melded or laid off any cards prior during the hand. If playing with the discard rule, they must also discard after melding. If a player goes rummy when a card can be played, that player is out for that turn. Game players are still in game but the hand goes dead. Playing for rummy is more risky, but it carries the reward of double the score. Each player must wait until their second turn to go out. If there is a rummy lying in the pile, the player who called 'rummy' can play that card while the player who laid the rummy must then draw 2 cards from the stock pile or pick up the entire discarded pile. In a closed discard joker, A player can Declare the card at his first attempt itself. Here the point system follows the same as above.

Scoring[edit]

After a player goes out, the hand ends, and the players count up their cards. Any cards left in each player's hand are counted up and added to the winner's score. The face cards count as 10 each, number cards as their face value, and aces as one. There are many variations. Common ones include counting an ace as 11 or 15.

Variations[edit]

Melding with a joker

In some instances, jokers are used as wildcards and can represent any card value when melding.[4] They can be used in sets or runs but can not be replaced when 'melded', nor can a player lay off a card to replace it by themselves or their opponent. Jokers are not counted during the scoring.

In other variations, such as rummy 500 and treppenrommé, discards are placed so that all the cards are visible. At the beginning of his or her turn, a player may take any card from the discard pile, so long as they also pick up all the cards that are on top of it, and the last card picked up is played immediately. If only picking up the top card, the player must keep it and discard a different card from their hand.

In a variation called block rummy, players do not continue after going through the pack once – if no players are out, they all lose the points in their hands after the pack has been gone through once. Round the corner rummy, also called continuity rummy, is a variant where an ace may be simultaneously high and low to 'wrap around' in a run, as in the following meld: Q-K-A-2.

Related card games[edit]

There are a large number of games derived from rummy. Although in North America the word rummy is often used as a stand-in for the specific game gin rummy, the term is applicable to a large family of games, including canasta, mahjong and rummikub.

Melding family[edit]

The most basic form where play continues until the stock is exhausted or a player achieves a specific number of points. Different cards (and melds in some games) are worth specific points. In some variations, the first meld must meet minimum point requirements or the final meld must include a discard. Some of these are played for four players in partnerships of two. In most variations, players may extensively add to or even rearrange their cards.

  • 5000 Rum
  • Cuajo
  • Indonesian rummy (remi)
  • Red three rummy
  • Speed Rummy

Contract family[edit]

In contract rummy, players are either assigned specific objectives (known or unknown to the other players) or decides their own objectives and announces them before play begins. Players are awarded and or penalized extra points depending on if they successfully meet their objectives.

Shedding games[edit]

In these games, players play until they have a minimal number of points or cards in their unmelded hand.

Canasta family[edit]

Canasta games usually involve partnerships using two or more decks with many wild cards. There are many rules and restrictions on first melds, final melds and taking the deck. Seven or eight of a kinds (canasta) score high.

  • Samba

Knock rummy[edit]

In knock rummy, players usually reveal their entire hand at the end of the game. In most variations, a player may signal (through knock or a specific kind of discard) that s/he has a valid hand. In some variations, the other players get one final turn before the reveal.

Variations with non-Western cards or special equipment[edit]

Rummoli games[edit]

Rummoli games use Western cards, but require a special board or modified table with various squares with specific cards drawn on them. In each round, players put tokens in the squares. If a player lays down a card matching a square, they collect the tokens therein. Most versions allow multiple players to meld straights in sequence and do not use three- or four-of-a-kinds. Some versions include poker-like elements.

  • Michigan
  • Poch
  • Rummoli
  • Three In One
  • Tripoli or TRIPOLEY (a trademarked version)[5]
  • Michigan Rummy
  • Royal Rummy

Unique cards[edit]

Several companies produce special card sets which often include special cards not seen in other rummoli variations. Some variations resemble the card game Crazy Eights. Most of these games are suitable for children and Safari Pals is an educational game.

Chinese cards[edit]

There are two different kinds of Chinese decks used for rummy-like games. The rules of each variation vary greatly.

  • Quan dui

Tiles[edit]

Tile rummy games usually include tiles of only three suits along with special tiles unseen in card games. Mahjong, a game with elaborate rules and different scoring systems, is played in East Asia with numerous variations played in different countries. Rummikub and other international tile variations have rules similar to meld and knock rummy.

Rummy Popularity[edit]

The countries where Rummy is most popular:[6]

1.United States

2.India

3.United Kingdom

4.Canada

5.Australia

6.Romania

7.Germany

8.Spain

9.New Zealand

10.Argentina

References[edit]

  1. ^Parlett, David (1978). The Penguin Book of Card Games. ISBN978-0-14-103787-5.
  2. ^'Parlett's Historic Card Games: Gin Rummy – David Parlett'.
  3. ^'Basic Rummy Guide'.
  4. ^'Rules of Rummy'. Pagat. Retrieved 27 December 2015.
  5. ^McLeod, John (2016-11-03). 'Rules of Card Games: Tripoli'. www.pagat.com. Retrieved 2019-12-31.
  6. ^'Play Rummy Online for Free'. VIP Games. Retrieved 2021-01-12.
Retrieved from 'https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Rummy&oldid=1000358843'

Introduction: Equipment, Players and Objective

This page is based on the instructions in Romanian and Hungarian supplied with a tile rummy set bought near Bistriţa in Romania, and on information from Hilary Howarth, who learned the game from her Romanian husband and his family, and from Vlad Diaconu. I would be very pleased to hear from anyone who can give me more information about tile rummy games played in Romania and other south-east European countries.

The set consists of 106 wooden tiles. 104 of them have coloured numbers. There are four colours: red, yellow, blue and black, and in each colour there are two of each number from 1 to 13. The remaining two tiles have no numbers, but usually a picture of a smiling face. There are also four wooden racks on which the players store their tiles during the game, so that each player can see only his or her own tiles.

The game can be played by two, three or four players. At each turn you draw one tile and discard one. The object of the game is to get rid of all your tiles by laying them down in sets of the same number and runs of consecutive numbered tiles of the same colour.

The whole game is played anticlockwise.

Preparation and Distribution of Tiles

The tiles are mixed thoroughly face down on the table, and then built into a wall of 15 face-down stacks of seven tiles (there will be one tile left over). The wall is straightened by squeezing it between two of the racks, held parallel and on either side of the wall.

The dealer of the first game is chosen at random. For subsequent games the turn to deal passes to the right. The dealer turns the extra tile face up and counts out the number on the tile starting at one end of the wall. On the stack represented by the exposed tile, the dealer replaces the top tile with the exposed tile and moves this new spare tile to the top of the next stack, which will then have 8 tiles. For example if the original spare tile was an 8, the modified wall will look like this:

The stack with the extra tile goes to the player to the dealer's right, and the dealer continues aroung the table counter-clockwise, giving one of the following stacks to each player in turn (working along the wall to the right if the wall as seen in the above diagram), continuing until each player has two stacks. If the end of the wall is reached the dealer continues from the beginning.

The players arrange the tiles on their racks - each player has 14 tiles except the player to dealer's right, who starts with 15. The remaining stacks stay face down in the centre of the table as a drawing stock. The first stack to be drawn from is the next stack in the order in which stacks were taken for the deal. It is customary to place this on top of the following stack, to indicate where the next tile is to be drawn from. As this drawing stack diminishes in size, periodically its tiles are added on top of the next following stack, to make the current drawing stack taller than the others.

If a low numbered tile is exposed initially, then the deal will leave the wall in two separate sections. In this case, during tiles are of course first drawn from the section after the dealt tiles, and then from the other sections, working towards the stack with the exposed tile.

Rummy Game

The exposed tile itself is never drawn. When the other stacks are exhausted the exposed tile is removed from the top of its stack so that the six tiles that were under it can be drawn in turn.

Before the play begins, any player who has a pair of identical tiles (the same colour and number) can announce 'doubla'. Any two players who have doublas may agree to exchange them, each player passing the pair of tiles in question face-down to the other player. Players are not allowed to give exact information about the rank and colour of the tiles they want to exchange - they may only (if they wish) announce their doubla as 'high' or 'low'.

If you are dealt the tile that is identical to the exposed tile, you may announce it before your first turn to play, and you will then score a bonus of 25 points at the end of the play.

The Play

The first player (who has 15 tiles) begins the game by throwing an unwanted tile face up on the table. This tile cannot be used at any time during the game. Thereafter, the turn to play passes counterclockwise around the table.

The object of the game is to collect tiles that form valid sets and runs, which can then be melded (placed face up on the table in front of you). Until you have succeeded in melding some tiles, you must begin each turn by taking the next available tile from the wall. Then if you have combinations of sufficient value, you may meld some tiles from your rack. To end your turn you must discard one tile from your hand face up. The discarded tiles are placed near the centre of the table in a row, in the order they were discarded. The tile thrown by the first player is placed at a right angle to the others to show that this is the start of the line.

There are two types of valid combination.

  • A run (suita) consists of at least three consecutive numbers of the same colour. A 1 may used to make a run of 1-2-3, or may be counted as following the 13 to make a run of 12-13-1. A 1 cannot be placed in the middle of a run: 13-1-2 is not valid.
  • A set (terta) consists of three or four tiles of the same number in different colours.

The two unnumbered tiles are known as Joly. A Joly can be used to substitute for any tile you need to make a set or run.

When using a Joly at the end of a run, you must make it clear which tile the Joly is intended to represent. For example the run [blue 9] - [blue 10] - [Joly] with the Joly representing the 11 can later be extended by adding a blue 12, but it's not possible to reassign the Joly to be a blue 8 so that a blue 7 can be added.

A combination must always contain at least twice as many real tiles as Jolys. Therefore you cannot use both Jolys in a single set, or in a run of fewer than 6 tiles. For example [yellow 3] - [Joly] - [yellow 5] - [Joly] - [yellow 7] is not allowed, but if you added the yellow 8 to it, it would be a legal run.

For your first meld, you must put down combinations from your rack with the following constraints:

  • the tiles you meld must include at least one run;
  • the total value of the melded tiles must be at least 50 points.

For this purpose the tiles have point values as follows:

2 to 95 points each
10 to 1310 points each
1 in a run of 1-2-3-...5 points
1 in a run of ...-12-13-110 points
1's in a set of three 1's25 points each
A Joly has the value of the tile it represents

In order to be allowed to meld any tiles at all, you must first meld from your hand sets and runs to a total value of at least 50 points. After you have done that, then in this and subsequent turns, after drawing and before discarding, you may meld further sets and runs, and add tiles to sets and runs that you or other players have previously melded. However, no tile may form part of two combinations (sets or runs) at the same time.

There is no obligation to meld tiles just because you can: you may keep them on your rack for later use if you prefer, though by doing so you risk a a bad score if another player ends the game meanwhile.

After you have melded some tiles as above, you have additional options on subsequent turns.

  1. You may put down additional runs and sets, irrespective of their point value.
  2. You may add tiles to extend your own or other players' existing melds.
  3. You may begin your turn by picking up the previous player's discard instead of drawing a new tile from the centre: there is no obligation to include this tile in a meld immediately.
  4. If you have two tiles on your rack that can form a set or run with any one tile of the discard row you may take this tile, meld the combination, and you must then pick up all the tiles discarded after the tile that you melded and add them to your rack. (You may then meld additional tiles or add them to existing melds).
  5. If you have the exact tile represented by a Joly in your own or another player's run, you may take the Joly, replacing it with the tile it represented, provided that you immediately meld the Joly with two tiles from your rack to make a new set or run.
  6. If you or another player have melded a pair of equal numbered tiles with a Joly as a set of three, and you hold tiles of the same rank in both missing colours, you may take the Joly, replacing it with these two tiles (completing four of a kind), provided that you immediately meld the Joly with two tiles from your rack to make a new set or run.
  7. If there is a set of two equal numbered tiles and a Joly on the table, and you have just one of the missing colours, you can add this tile to the set to make four of a kind, but you cannot take the Joly. Later, a player who has the same numbered tile of the fourth colour can use it to replace the Joly, provided that this player immediately melds the Joly with two tiles from his or her rack to make a new set or run.

Note that you are not allowed to take a discard to help make your initial meld of at least 50 points. Nor are you allowed, in the same turn as your initial meld, to add tile to other players' melds or to substitute the real tile for another player's Joly. The actions only become available to you in the turn after your initial meld.

If you have only one or two tiles left in your hand, you are not allowed to pick up any tiles from the discard pile. You must begin each turn by taking the next tile from the wall.

To win the game you must meld all your remaining tiles but one, discarding your last tile. On this final turn only, you may take the initial exposed tile from the end of the wall to complete your hand, instead of drawing an unknown tile from the wall or taking a tile from the discard pile.

A player who has three or fewer tiles left must announce this to the other players. Note that a player who has only one or two tiles left can only get rid of these by adding them to existing melds - if you have two tiles and pick up a third that forms a set or run with them, you can't meld this new set or run, as it would leave you with no tile to discard.

A player may choose to not to meld any tiles during the game, but keep them all concealed on his or her rack, hoping to win by melding them all at once. The player gets an extra bonus for this if successful, but of course risks incurring a large loss if another player wins.

It sometimes happens that all the face down tiles from the centre are drawn before any player ends the game by melding all their tiles. In this case the tile of the discard line are turned face down, except for the first tile at right angles, which remains exposed in place. These face down tiles from the old discard line are thoroughly mixed and used to build a new wall from which tiles can be drawn, so that the game can continue. The turning and shuffling of the old discards and rebuilding of the wall happens when a player wishes to draw a tile from the centre (rather than take a tile or tiles from the discard line) and there are no further face down tiles to draw.

Scoring

Indian

Rami Game Developer

The winner scores 100 points plus the value of the tiles he or she has melded. The other players score the value of tiles they have played minus the value of the tiles left in their racks. For this purpose the values of the tiles are the same as in the initial meld, except for the Joly, which counts +50 points for the player who first melds it, but 25 points against a player who has it on their rack at the end of the play.

Note that if a player claims a melded Joly in exchange for the tile or tiles that it represents, the person who originally melded it still scores the 50 points for it, while any players who subsequently took it score only the value of the tile(s) that they provided as a replacement for it. To keep track of this, tiles used to replace a Joly are placed in the meld upside down. At the end of the play, the Joly is passed back from its final position through all the places where it was previously melded, ending in the meld in which it was first used, while the upside down tiles that replaced it are returned in each case to the player who supplied them, so that they can be scored for that player.

Anyone who did not meld any tiles at all loses 200 points irrespective of the values of the tiles on their rack.

If you win by melding all your 14 tiles at once (without having previously melded any tiles), you score an additional 100 bonus - that is a total of 200 plus the value of the tiles you meld.

If anyone was dealt the tile identical to the initial exposed tile and declared it, tthat player scores an extra 25 points.

It can happen that a game ends with no winner, if all the spare tiles have been drawn from the centre and no one has managed to compete their hand. In this case everyone scores for the tiles they have put down less the tiles they have left, and no one gets the 100 point bonus for winning.

A series of games is played, the deal passing to the right after each game and the scores are totalled. The players can choose whether the game should end after a fixed number of games or when someone reached an agreed target score.

Hilary Howarth recommends the following methods to keep the scoring clear during play:

  1. If a player supplies the fourth tile of a set, that set is removed from the player's meld area and each player keeps in a stack the number of tiles they contributed to the set.
  2. If a player adds tile(s) to another player's run, that player takes tiles worth the equivalent number of points from the middle of the run, leaving the ends of the run clearly identified. E.g. Player 'A' adds 9 and 10 (worth 15 points) to Player 'B's' run of 6-7-8. Player 'A' moves the 7, 8, and 9 tiles to her stack as she is entitled to 15 points. Remaining on the in 'B's' melding area is 7-10, indicating the end numbers of the run for future add-ons.

Each player keeps by them a stack of these tiles representing points for melds that can no longer be added to, for easy score counting at the end of the game

Note that it is possible to a player who has melded a lot of tiles to score more points than the 'winner' who ends the game.

Variations

According to some printed rules, a player who has melded no tiles loses 100 plus the value of the tiles on their rack, rather than a fixed 200 points.

Some players require only 45 points (not 50) for the first meld.

Some players allow the previous player's discard (one tile only) to be taken if it is immediately used as part of your initial meld.

Some play that if you win by discarding a Joly, having melded all your other tiles, your score for that hand is doubled.